Sometimes you have to fly over the still-freezing Irish seas and you have to spend the night at an airport hotel outside Rome Fiumicino. In Ireland there are many memorials to tragedies — to the Titanic, to the Lusitania, to famine, to people in the police force who lost their lives while on duty. The airport hotel in Rome is a Best Western, with an outdoor pool that wants to be useful, but no one likes to swim in the shadow of planes.